Review: Inside the Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid in Spain

Location of Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid

The Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid, is on one of the city’s central squares, Plaza de la Lealtad, just across from the Bolsa de Madrid (stock exchange) building. It’s squarely within the area known as the “Golden Triangle of Art,” thanks to the world-famous museums there; the Prado is right next door and the Thyssen-Bornemisza is across the plaza.

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Standout features

• It’s in a phenomenal location within walking distance of many of Madrid’s cultural landmarks.
• The hotel features gorgeous belle epoque architecture and lavish public spaces, including the restored Palm Court.
• It offers of the city’s best in-hotel dining, including the Michelin two-star Deessa from chef Quique Dacosta and the extravagant Champagne Bar.
• There’s a state-of-the-art wellness complex, including a subterranean pool, fitness center and spa.
• The polished yet warm staff provides high-touch hospitality.

Drawbacks

• All that luxury comes at a sky-high price point — room rates are among the loftiest in Madrid.
• Although the hotel is up to accessibility standards, getting to some areas might require roundabout maneuvers.
• The accommodations’ soundproofing is solid, but if your room faces Paseo del Prado, you might hear some street noise (though we were also there during a raucous Madrid Pride weekend).

The vibe

Visitors to the Ritz Madrid in its original heyday must have been awed by its splendor, from the round-turreted facade to the sweeping staircase cascading into the lobby to the imposing Palm Court, where crystal ceilings bathed well-to-do Madrilenos in sunlight as they socialized over afternoon tea.

Travelers nowadays will be no less impressed. The Palm Court’s glass ceiling has been restored (it was covered over in the 1960s), providing a light-filled central nexus for the hotel. Equally impressive is the eye-catching new artwork, such as the leaf-like brass and nickel “Remolino del Retiro” sculpture overhanging the hotel’s entrance hall. The concierge desk was inspired by the nearby Retiro Park and the strawberry tree on Madrid’s coat of arms.

You will still find well-heeled visitors filling the hotel’s public spaces, though these days, they hail from all corners of the globe. You’re as likely to hear Arabic, Mandarin, English and French as you are to catch snippets of Castellano.

Hospitality here is a universal language, though, and a member of the helpful staff dressed in an impeccably tailored uniform is sure to be on hand to answer any questions before you even ask.

Rooms at Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid

I handed my bags to one of the congenial bellhops at the door and completed the check-in formalities at the front desk; then, I was escorted up to the fifth floor and along a hallway with carpeting playfully depicting different crowns in front of each guest room door. My Deluxe room was number 507.

The aesthetic was equal parts classic and contemporary — a simple carved-wood bed with fanciful spiral posters and pressed Cordoba leather backing (the pattern of which was inspired by the uniforms of bullfighters). The room had spotless white walls, a ceiling with original molding and glossy oak-parqueted floors.

Modern-chic curviform armchairs flanked a small table with Solan de Cabras spring water and a miniature Ritz Madrid almond cake — an homage to Alfonso XIII’s wedding cake. Past and present were palpable in every sightline (and bite).

A long, narrow table doubled as a work desk thanks to a comfortable bench and both power and USB-A outlets, which could also be found beside the bed. A large high-definition flat-screen TV was programmed with a number of Spanish and international channels as well as information on the hotel and its services.

Closet space was limited to one side of the minibar, which held a selection of Spanish wines and spirits as well as a Nespresso machine and a tea kettle.

Sunlight streamed in through the windowed doors, opening out onto a narrow balcony overlooking Plaza de la Lealtad. Heavy blackout curtains and electronic blinds were fully unfurled during turndown service to ensure a peaceful night’s rest. The blinds and room lights could be operated with bedside button panels, as well as some near the door and in the bathroom.

The bathroom offered a water closet with a toilet and its own sink to one side of a corridor; both the vanity and bathing area were on the other.

Two sinks were embedded in a dark Emperador marble counter. This marble also served as the floor tile in the glassed-in bathing suite.

This held both the walk-in shower and the freestanding soaking tub (all stocked with Natura Bisse bath products). The walls were tiled in brilliant-white Dolomite stone. A mirrored panel between the bathroom and the bedroom could slide open or shut, depending on the amount of privacy preferred.

At around 400 square feet, the Deluxe room felt spacious (especially by European standards) and richly appointed but not overwhelming. It was an excellent respite from a busy day out in the city during broiling July temperatures.

Dining and drinking

The Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid, is home to a plethora of restaurants and dining experiences.

Palm Court

At the heart of the hotel lies Palm Court, Madrid’s original place to see and be seen. Beneath the new steel and tempered glass ceiling, you’ll find out-of-towners and Madrilenos mingling on velvet and linen chairs arranged around low tables. Guests can taste their way through caviar presentations, appetizers like fresh oysters with mignonette ($35) and jamon de bellota ($49.50), Spanish classics such as fresh gazpacho ($20) and patatas bravas ($20), plus heartier fare like grilled beef tenderloin with Perigord sauce ($50).

This is also where breakfast, which is included with most rates, is served. Guests typically receive the “Desayuno Ritz” option ($55), which comes with a buffet selection of juices, pastries, fruits, cheeses and charcuterie. It also comes with an a la carte hot option such as eggs and omelets made to order; avocado toast with herbs, beet greens and macadamia powder; and Asian options like congee or a dim sum selection.

Afternoon tea is served daily from 4 to 6:30 p.m. at Palm Court. Starting at $62 per person, it includes many pastries and dainty finger sandwiches plus a selection of TWG teas from around the world.

Be sure to catch a glimpse of the crowd in artist Juan Carlos Garcia Perez’s mirrored wall installation; it creates a visually alluring fragmented perspective on the otherwise opulent space.

Champagne Bar

Ritz Madrid fans from back in the day might remember the clandestine Krug bar that was a fixture at the hotel for years. While that space is gone, it has been replaced with a new eight-seat Champagne Bar at the back of Palm Court. It beckons with its gold-tinged shelves, opening like a curiosity cabinet holding bottles of bubbly.

The menu here includes Champagne by the glass (mostly Ruinart and Moet et Chandon) plus a deep library of rare vintages by the bottle, including a 1982 Salon Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs ($8,680). You can also order various a la carte dishes and tasting menus of mainly caviar and seafood dishes.

Come just for an aperitif, though, because you’ll want to save room for dinner at the hotel’s flagship restaurant.

Deessa

Occupying the western side of the hotel’s ground floor, Deessa holds two Michelin stars. It’s helmed by chef Quique Dacosta, whose eponymous restaurant in Denia, Spain, currently holds three Michelin stars. (He has another named Poblet with its own two stars.)

With recessed golden cupolas, tinkling crystal chandeliers and oversized busts housed in glass and chrome boxes, the indoor dining room feels like a cross between Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors and an art installation at the nearby Thyssen-Bornemisza.

Settle in for a delightfully long evening of palate-intriguing dishes by executive chef Domenico Vildacci from one of the several tasting menus. Your meal might include rich creme brulee with meltingly sweet roasted onions, toasted pork jowl and seasonal mushrooms; a course with six types of caviar and fish roe; mackerel crudo with summer tomato and anchovy foam; and slow-cooked sole in aged-sake beurre blanc.

Accompany your dinner with various Spanish wines, including hard-to-find vintage Cavas and even Spanish-produced mead.

For dessert, seasonal dishes might include lemon sabayon with lemon cake and curd, and brandy-infused chestnut mousse. (Tasting menus range from $130 to $260; wine pairings range from $164 to $600).

Deessa is also the location for the hotel’s famous Sunday Lunch ($158 per person, including Cava and wine), which remains an unrivaled noontime occasion for Madrid’s smart set.

Essentially, it’s a lavish spread with oysters, prawns, charcuterie, cheeses, carving and serving stations for throwbacks like beef Wellington and paella Valenciana. There’s also a panoply of pastries and sundry sweets.

If you love brunch, make this your Sunday afternoon plan, and settle in for a few hours. Graze through a menu of Spanish delicacies accompanied by live music and attentive service in the dining room or out on the terrace.

Pictura Bar

To get to Pictura Bar, enter through a discreet door adjacent to the concierge desk and walk past a rippling golden wall reminiscent of a gilt frame. You’ll enter what feels like a secret, swanky retreat complete with velvet banquettes, Austrian crystal chandeliers and white-coated bartenders. Photographic portraits by Paula Anta hearken to the works of Diego Velazquez and Goya in the Prado next door.

You can order bar bites like ham croquettes ($22), hummus with crudites ($20) and pulled pork brioche with avocado cream and jalapenos ($26).

But the real draw is the cocktail menu. It includes classics like the house martini with Tanqueray 10 gin or Grey Goose vodka ($20) and the Bulleit Rye Manhattan ($20). Or, you can order libations mysteriously dubbed “forgotten” drinks like an Infante with Entre Manos tequila, homemade orgeat syrup and lime ($22). All are served with a selection of savories like spiced nuts and potato chips.

El Jardin del Ritz

Open from 1 p.m. to 1 a.m. daily, El Jardin del Ritz is the hotel’s alfresco restaurant fronting Paseo del Prado. Its tables are separated by shrubs and shaded by ample umbrellas and trees.

The menu here is more casual and international. Expect sea bass ceviche in leche de tigre ($26); upscale interpretations of traditional Spanish dishes such as egg tortilla with shrimp and guindilla peppers ($22); and plenty of different paellas ($66 to $96) for sharing. You can even book a private paella class ($191) to learn how to make it yourself.

Amenities and service

The Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid’s suite of wellness amenities, lies two levels underground via a special elevator located in Palm Court. The passage to reception is lined with tapestry-like pastoral scenes punctuated by window cases. The cases display partner skincare brands such as Swiss-based CellCosmet and Valmont, as well as Spanish Alqvimia products.

The menu of spa treatments includes an 80-minute jet lag body wrap and massage ($382), deep-tissue massages ($273 to $356) and a variety of Biologique Recherche-infused facials.

In addition to the spa, there is a stunning indoor pool with Dolomite stone walls, crystal chandeliers and a ceiling with fiber-optic lights that replicate Madrid’s night skies. Stake out a spot in the gold-framed cabana with lounge chairs and rinse off in the gold-tiled showers with relaxing lighting effects; then, enjoy a steam room or sauna session in the coed wet area.

The fitness center has Technogym cardio and weight machines plus free weights. Guests can book private training sessions.

Service at the Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid, is top-notch from check-in to turndown. Whether it is the offer of an impromptu spa tour, encouragement to speak Spanish no matter how halting your repartee or a complimentary glass of Champagne while waiting to be seated for lunch (and an extra bottle of water in the evening when housekeeping notices you’ve gone through several that day), you can’t help but feel taken care of here.

Out and about

It’s hard to imagine a better location than the apex of the city’s Golden Triangle of Art. The Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid sits just across a small street from the Prado, and guests have only to cross the Paseo del Prado (sparing a moment to take in the grandiose Neptune Fountain) to arrive at one of the city’s other iconic museums, the Thyssen-Bornemisza.

Three blocks to the east of the hotel, you can stroll along the leafy paths or watch the boaters on the famous pond at Retiro Park. Then, wander north to the Puerta de Alcala for a meal at one of the area’s many bustling restaurants.

A 15-minute walk south of the hotel brings you to the Reina Sofia Museum, where you can see Picasso’s monumental “Guernica.” Or, head west to shop in the flagship stores of globe-spanning fashion brands on the way to the Puerta del Sol, the Plaza Mayor and the Royal Palace.

Accessibility

Historic hotels can easily fall short when it comes to accessibility options due to the nature of their architecture, which often has protected status. However, the Ritz Madrid has wheelchair-accessible parking and a no-step entrance from the street; from here, guests can access Palm Court without stairs or get to elevators for access to the guest room floors.

While you will not find automated doors in most parts of the hotel, the omnipresence of staff ensures there is almost always someone on hand to open or close a door for guests in the public areas.

Speaking of guest rooms, there are four wheelchair-accessible accommodations at the hotel with features like lowered spy holes in the doors and grab bars in the bathroom. Always call in advance to reserve a room that meets your specific requirements, though.

El Jardin is accessible directly from the street. There is a wheelchair lift along a set of external stairs that can be used to access Pictura Bar and Deessa from El Jardin or the street.

Down in the wellness center, the spa, pool, locker rooms and gym are all on a single level without stairs, and staff can bring a portable chairlift to the pool upon request.

Checking out

A royal past and a posh present combine to make the Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid, one of the city’s best hotels and a truly unique place from which to experience the Spanish capital.

In addition to beautifully appointed accommodations and lavish amenities, the hotel is home to unique settings like the Champagne Bar, Deessa and the expansive underground wellness complex. All of this makes a visit to Madrid, and to this hotel in particular, all the more memorable.

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